Exploring the Heart of Flores: Cultural Journey from Bajawa to Ruteng
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- Filan Kut
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Flores Island possesses a unique magic that never fails to captivate the souls of adventurers. Last mid-November, I received an email from Mr. Peter, requesting a customized 5-day family expedition for six people to explore the natural splendor and cultural heritage of Flores on December.
Initially, I assumed they were looking for a standard tourist route. However, Mr. Peter chose a more specific and immersive path: starting from Bajawa and heading west toward Labuan Bajo. Enthusiastically, I designed a proposal focusing on the indigenous culture of the Ngada tribe and a visit to the legendary village above the clouds, Wae Rebo. After several correspondences, we reached an agreement, and the adventure began.
Arrival Drama at Soa Airport
December brings a poetic atmosphere to Flores, but it also presents weather challenges. Mr. Peter’s family took a flight from Labuan Bajo to Soa Airport in Bajawa. That morning, my driver and I raced from Ruteng to Bajawa to welcome them.
As the afternoon progressed, heavy gray clouds began to hang low. I monitored the Flight Radar app with growing anxiety. By 4:30 PM, the plane had yet to appear on the radar. I decided to pull over in Aimere, preparing for the worst-case scenario if the flight had to divert.
The tension peaked because Soa Airport lacks runway lights, making a landing after dark nearly impossible. Fortunately, the aircraft finally appeared and landed safely at 5:50 PM after circling the sky several times. A wave of relief washed over me knowing that Mr. Peter and his family had touched down safely.
Tracing the Traditions of the Ngada Tribe
The morning in Bajawa greeted us with rapidly shifting weather. While we originally intended to witness the majesty of Mount Inerie from Wolobobo Summit, thick fog forced us to pivot.
Immersed in Luba and Bena Traditional Villages
Instead, I led the family on a relaxing walk through giant bamboo forests and lush local plantations. Mr. Peter looked deeply satisfied, breathing in the crisp mountain air while observing the local flora.
We then entered the Luba and Bena Traditional Villages. The atmosphere was truly magical; high-roofed houses thatched with alang-alang grass stood sturdy amidst authentic megalithic architecture. In Bena, we witnessed the daily lives of the locals firsthand:
- Skilled old woman weaving the intricate patterns of Ngada textiles.
- Men working together to repair traditional rooftops.
- The earthy aroma of garden harvests being processed on the terraces.
The Magic of Malanage Hot Springs
To close the day, we headed to the Malanage Hot Springs, a unique natural phenomenon where a volcanic hot river meets a cold mountain stream. To ensure a seamless experience, I had pre-ordered lunch from a local family nearby. As heavy rain began to fall, we felt incredibly cozy. While waiting for the rain to subside, we enjoyed steaming hot local dishes inside a simple wooden hut—an intimate moment of hospitality you simply cannot find in a city restaurant. Once the rain eased, the family plunged into the water, enjoying a natural relaxation session in the merging currents before spending a relaxing afternoon at Manulalu Café.
The Aroma of Sopi and the Hustle of Ruteng Market
On the third day, we embarked on a four-hour drive along the Trans-Flores highway toward Ruteng. We stopped in Aimere to witness the production of Sopi, a traditional spirit distilled from lontar palm trees. The distinct aroma of the distillation steam and the warmth of the local distillers left a lasting impression on the family.
Upon arriving in Ruteng, we headed straight to the Ruteng Traditional Market. As the largest market on the island, the energy was vibrant. Mr. Peter’s family was thrilled to see the variety of local commodities and the friendly interactions between sellers and buyers. That evening, I treated their palates to an Italian dinner at the town’s only specialty Italian restaurant.
Day 4: The Spiderweb Fields and the Golorenda Trail
The final day of my guided tour was filled with adventure around Ruteng. After breakfast, we explored the Golorenda Walking Trail.
Trekking Through Authentic Countryside
At the Golorenda Walking Trail, we immersed ourselves in authentic local life by trekking through charming residential settlements and agriculture field. Throughout the journey, we were treated to breathtaking panoramic views that painted a stunning backdrop to our rural adventure.
Lingko Fields: The Spiderweb Masterpiece
The highlight of the day was visiting the Lingko Fields. From the viewpoint, these rice paddies form a perfect spiderweb pattern. I explained that this shape is not just for aesthetics, but a traditional land-sharing system of the Manggarai tribe that ensures social justice. They were mesmerized by this cultural masterpiece.
My journey with Mr. Peter and his family concluded here. With satisfied smiles, they continued their journey to Dintor to rest before their trek to the village above the clouds, Wae Rebo.
